How to read a pattern

How to Read Knitting Charts and Stitch Graphs

By AprylZA for MuseumOfKnitting.com

A knitting chart is a grid containing stitch symbols that represent public side of the piece (the “Right Side”) as it faces you. Each square indicates each stitch and the symbols indicate a technique (or several). Stitch symbols are not standardized from one designer or publisher to the next, so be sure to check the key that’s included with the design.

Key to Stitches:

 Knit

 Purl

If the piece is worked in rounds on circular needles, then we read the chart from lower right, progressing up the rounds, always reading from right to left. With back-and-forth on two needles, then chart reads from lower right side, across that row and then moves up one row and reads back from right to left; and then up to the 3rd row from the bottom from left to right and back again for the next row. The chart always indicates how the piece looks from the public (“Right”) side. That means you need to know that a Knit stitch on the front is worked as a Purl stitch on the back—the chart indicates a Knit on the Right side even though you’ve purled that stitch on the Wrong side.

 Worked back & forth on straight needles. This is a multiple of 1 stitch worked over 4 rows, with one stitch on either side for selvedges.

 Worked in rounds on circular needles. There is no need for selvedge stitches.

Rows are in numbered columns at the start of the row; Row 1 is on the column on the right, and Row 2 is on the column on the left. Rounds are numbered straight up the right-side column. If there are only odd-numbers, that means you work the even-numbered row (or round) the same as the preceding one. This is not a hard and fast rule, so be aware that the occasional chart may indicate otherwise. For example, there may be a Foundation Row that sets up the pattern and won’t be repeated in the following multiples.

 WS Rows: Work the sts as they present themselves.

 Foundation Row establishes the pattern on the WS and isn’t repeated.

Patterns that are repeated in multiples are usually indicated with a box surrounding that multiple. Extra stitches and rows on either side of the box are often included so as to balance the multiples within the piece, or to add a selvedge edge. It’s helpful to place a stitch marker in your work at the start and end of each multiple if you find yourself getting lost.

Sometimes, a “no stitch” square is necessary to indicate that an increase or decrease happens, changing the number of stitches from row to row. Just ignore it; there’s no corresponding stitch and nothing to worry about.

Lace charts are often quite deceptive, as yarn overs that appear on a chart one above the other may result in a vertical progression of holes in the work.

If the piece is worked from the top down, or from side to side, the chart will appear upside-down or sideways. Follow the chart as presented, and then it’ll all come together in finishing.  

When the chart uses symbols to indicate colors, it’s extremely helpful to use colored pens or pencils to clarify the visual representation. This takes extra time and the start, but makes the chart so much easier to follow as you work it.

Garment sizes, when multiple sizes are included on one chart, are marked where to begin and end for that size. In this way, the repeating motif is centered for each size. Simply follow the rows/rounds at the squares indicated for your size, ignoring the other sizes. It may be helpful for you to print a copy of the chart and blackout the larger sizes, leaving only the chart that suits your size.

Tip: If you’re getting lost working up the rows, place a card on the chart, covering the rows you’ve not yet worked. In that way, you’ll be able to compare the current row with the rows already worked.